I do allot of guns that are sentimental to my costumers and they want to pass it on to there kids but want it working and looking new. I do this all the time because I restore guns for a living and yes a gun that is restored is not worth what it would be if not restored but if a gun is worth penny's because of it's condition then restoring it does not hurt the value. And I put on 5 to 10 coats of Tru oil on so it does not ware off easy if you do not put enough coats on it will ware off quick. For small holes or dents put on some Tru oil and sand (with the grain) using a block not your fingers with 400 grit paper to fill the hole let dry and sand again. I lay the stock flat so I can fill the dent with water and use a hot soldering iron just touching the water NOT THE WOOD the water will turn to steam and lift the dent. Steaming out dents is easy and works if done right.
#Acraglas stock crack repair crack#
Use a GOOD 2 part wood epoxy and clamp it for at lest 24 hours do NOT USE GORILLA GLUE it will expand and crack the stock even worse.Īs for tru oil you do not want to use steel wool you use 800-1000 grit sand paper between coats and use a tack rag to get off the dust.You can use this method to fill the crack after epoxy but make sure you scrape out the epoxy when wet to leave a crater in the crack to fill.This way it will match the wood when finishing it. Make sure they are tight because you do not want the stock to come apart while shooting and stick a piece of wood in your shoulder or face. I've fired a few hundred rounds thru it and the repair is still invisable. The last repair job I did was on a WW1 Springfield finger groove stock that was broken in two parts at the middle band. I've found that at least 5 coats of Tru Oil is often necessary - sometimes even more. A clean towel and a clean work enviornment are a must. I use 000 steel wool between coats, just make sure that you remove ALL of the steel wool fibers before applying the next coat.
I like Birchwood Casey stain and filler, and really like the Tru Oil hand rubbed finsh over it. The end result looks like a knot in the wood. Then I sand that spot, and repeat the glue-sawdust process until the void is filled and smooth. I then put a drop or two of Crazy Glue into the deep dent and sprinkle the sawdust into the glue and let it harden. If I have a deep dent in a stock - and if that stock is just a utility grade stock - a trick I've used many times is to sand the stock to remove minor dents and scratches with very fine sandpaper, and save the accumulated sawdust. I've tried the "steam process" many times to remove dents and gouges. Allow extra drying/cureing time - be patient. After you apply the epoxy mixture be sure to clamp the pieces together firmly. You want to make the wooden joints to be repaired as clean and dust-free as you can get them.
#Acraglas stock crack repair cracked#
I use an epoxy stock bedding kit for my gunstocks for cracked or even broken pieces. I've used it on household wood projects, and it is fine for that. I've read about Gorilla Glue, and it is pretty strong stuff for wood.
Having said that, repairing that cracked stock is not all that difficult. Besides gently removing surface rust, just about any reblueing or wood refinishing is something that will drive a collector crazy. Anything you do to the original finish will deminish the collector value. "Restoring" an antique firearm is a very delicate subject.